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Our unifit outlets are ETL listed (by Intertek) and tested to the applicable UL and CSA standards for both the United States and Canada. Control Number: 5029983. You can find it in the Intertek Directory of Listed Products using ‘Prado America’ in the search field.

Yes, all unifit outlets are tamper-resistant, identified by the “TR” marking on the module face, behind the cover plate. Fun fact: our founder’s initials are “TR,” standing for Thibault Renson.

Yes. The adjustable mud plate allows you to adapt the installation depth to match the plaster thickness. Adjust the height by twisting the middle section, from 1/8” (3.6 mm) up to 3/4” (20 mm).

The adjustment must be completed before applying the finishing compound. Once the mudding process is complete and the compound has cured, the mud plate height can no longer be adjusted, as the compound securely fixes the middle section.

If you’re looking for a specific color, we do offer custom RAL colored cover plates for an extra price. For custom colors, we require a minimum order of 100 outlets with an additional $500 production fee plus $9 per cover plate. The lead time for custom orders is typically 12-16 weeks.

Field painting is an option, but it might show wear sooner. When painting cover plates in the field, it’s important to follow proper surface preparation and application techniques to ensure a durable, high-quality finish.

Start by applying a light coat of a suitable bonding primer, such as XIM Primer/Bonder or a comparable product. Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions for application, and be sure to match the primer type to the paint being used — compatibility is essential for adhesion and long-term durability.

Since cover plates are frequently touched and exposed to wear, a more resilient type of paint is recommended. Lacquer-based, oil-based, or polyurethane-based paints offer superior durability for this type of application. If water-based paints are preferred, applying a clear protective topcoat is advised to improve resistance to scratching and wear.

Prepare the paint according to the intended application method. This may involve thinning the paint to the proper ratio, based on the manufacturer’s instructions. To achieve a smooth finish, strain the paint using a mesh filter to remove any particulates or clumps.

For best results, use a small spray gun — either a detail or cap spray type — equipped with a #3 tip. Adjust the fan width to medium or wide, and set the air pressure to around 60 psi. Hold the spray gun approximately 10 inches from the cover plate and apply a light, even coat using multiple quick passes. Position the spray gun at a slight angle, around 45 degrees, to ensure the paint reaches the sidewalls of the cover plate. Only a minimal amount of paint is needed on the edges to maintain a clean profile.​

Allow the paint to set briefly before rotating the cover plate to reach all sides evenly. If using a water-based finish, a clear topcoat can be applied after the paint has dried to further enhance surface protection and appearance.

A drill press gives the most accurate and clean results. If using a handheld drill, keep it strictly perpendicular to the surface and use a steady, moderate speed. Always test on a scrap piece first to dial in depth and alignment before drilling the final workpiece.

Yes. A handheld plunge router can be used, but always test on scrap material first to confirm the depth and positioning before routing the final panel.

No. These unifit mud plates are designed for self-contained installations only. They are not intended for use with hardwired versions or with electrical back boxes. Always follow the installation instructions and ensure the correct installation method is used for your application.

Yes, our unifit outlets can be installed in wet rooms if you use a GFI/GFCI breaker in your panel.

No, no removal tool is required. Simply use your plug and a screwdriver to remove our outlets.

No. This bit is only required for flush installations where the outlet needs to sit level with the surrounding surface. For surface-mounted or small trim installations, no countersink is required.

Yes. The router bit creates the countersink around the opening; it does not create the complete outlet opening. The main hole should be prepared first according to the unifit installation instructions.

For optimal plaster adhesion and a seamless finish, the use of fiberglass mesh tape is recommended around the mud plate before plastering.

While we do not offer direct GFCI outlets/receptacles, unifit outlets can be wired to a GFCI outlet or GFCI breaker in the panel, just like a standard receptacle, to become a GFCI protected outlet.

While we do not offer a dedicated USB-C module, you can use our unifit keystone module with a USB-C keystone (not included).

Unfortunately, no. The cap is designed to fixate onto the newest version of unifit hardwired, which includes this feature, whereas the older outlets do not.

Yes, all our outlets/receptacles, including the new self-contained versions, are ETL listed (by Intertek) and tested to the applicable UL and CSA standards for both the United States and Canada. Control Number: 5029983. You can find it in the Intertek Directory of Listed Products using ‘Prado America’ in the search field. The ETL mark indicates that Intertek has independently tested and certified the product to meet the same rigorous safety requirements as the corresponding UL standards, and it is recognized throughout the United States and Canada.

However, it remains the installer’s responsibility to ensure compliance with the NEC and all applicable local codes. Example: In New York City, metallic electrical boxes are required. In that case, the outlet must be installed as a hardwired unit using a metallic box, metallic conduit, and a back box cover plate.

Both create the same result. The forstner bit is the simplest option, just a drill and two bits. The rabbeting router bit gives more consistent depth control and cleaner edges, making it the better choice if you’re installing multiple outlets or want extra precision. If you don’t own a router, go with the forstner bit.

To flush-mount your unifit receptacle, check our flush mount guide and see our recommended forstner bit and rabbeting router bit. For installation in wood, start by applying painter’s tape over the area to protect the surface. Drill a 1-1/2” (Ø38 mm) countersink to a depth of 1/10″ (2.5 mm), then a 1-3/8” (Ø35 mm) hole for the outlet body, keeping both holes perfectly centered and perpendicular. Using a drill press is ideal, but a steady handheld drill works as well. Alternatively, it is possible to use the rabbeting router bit to create the flush mount countersink in wood. Always test on a scrap piece first and drill at moderate speed. Mudded walls only allow flush installation with the unifit mud plate.

Set the cutting depth so the countersink reaches 1/10” (2.5 mm) for flush installation of your unifit outlet.